Exploring Istanbul's shisha culture at Harab’be Cafe

ISTANBUL — Tucked away in an alley near the Hagia Sophia is Harab’be Cafe, a local hookah lounge and pub in Fatih. As part of a little experiential journalism and a bit of a tough ask from my professor, I’m here to walk you through my shisha journey.

Hookah is a glass water pipe used to inhale shisha--a special hookah tobacco, flavored with dried herbs, spices, and flowers. The tradition is deeply embedded into Middle Eastern culture, and Turkish history, too. It’s about 500 years old and going strong today. Like any çay or kahvesi (Turkish tea or coffee) house, hookah lounges on the streets of Istanbul are places where friends gather to relax and bond over conversation.

Most shops I’ve seen in the city have some kind of shisha paraphernalia. One of my favorites was a hookah shaped like an AK-47. It’s a work of art and more than just a vapor vessel.

Ramazan Can helped me understand that. He’s one of the owners of Harab’be Cafe and runs the shop with his brother, Emrah.

Ramazan, 24, has been at the lounge for about six years. He said the building is about 25 years old and used to be a fish restaurant, until they purchased it.

It’s a mix of an indoor/outdoor lounge with multiple levels. Harab’be Cafe’s entrance is at the top of the alley. Leading up to the top are a few two-person tables with hookah pipe flower pots next to them. A small flight of stairs leads people to another small seating area before they reach the main entrance to their right.

Ornate Middle Eastern lamps cast multicolored light both inside and outside. The main level is an outdoor lounge area with cushioned floor seating and a few small tables. Inside the lounge is more seating and a bar.

My colleagues and I settled into chairs just below the main level and pored over menu options that included shisha flavored with variations of fruits, flavors and levels of menthol.

Ramazan’s been making shisha for about 12 years, and recommended, as first-timers, we try the “Love66.” It’s a shisha with watermelon, passion fruit, strawberry and not too much menthol.

He returned to the table with a white hookah embellished with red, yellow and blue decals.

There was a moment of truth, when one of my friends asked if I wanted to be the first to hit the hookah. We each had our own plastic mouthpieces, because germs bad, and I put mine into the main pipe.

I took a hit of the fruit-flavored vapor and heard the bubbling in the pipe. I inhaled deeply and blew some smoke in my friends’ faces because I am corny. The sensation wasn’t anything crazy — a simple headrush and a calm feeling swept over me. Left with a little buzz, I felt like I had made a good choice for the story assignment.

While I can’t report a life-changing experience or major epiphany after taking that first hit, I came to reflect on a different part of our adventure.

The hospitality and overall vibe of the lounge is what set it apart for me. Between Ramazan’s insights and the complimentary apple tea, I was left with a deeper appreciation of Turkish culture.

We didn’t become hookah connoisseurs, but we had a great time learning about it and the people who make it happen. And unlike many other memories which may fade away like vapor, I find this one may burn bright.